I’m not a big fan of the Sunshine State (aka America’s Wang) but to me, south Florida has one huge saving grace – the insane Cuban food I inevitably end up gorging myself on. Sure, people there may drive like extras in Mad Max, the heat may be unbearable, and their version of the pigeon looks like this. But there’s something about good Cuban food in south Florida that’s unmatchable; a crisp, savory Cuban sandwich made the right way (no damn mayo); a plate of plantains fried fried twice and Hulk-smashed into the perfect snack; a cube steak breaded and fried with a side of earthy black beans.
On a recent work trip to Miami I decided to kill the time before my flight eating the biggest Cuban lunch that I could physically withstand. I managed to eat $45 worth of food at a place known for its cheap, tasty food. The centerpiece of that ridiculously good meal was a plate of ropa vieja, long-simmered flank steak with peppers, onions, peas, and tomato that gets its name from its resemblance to tattered old clothes. The meat literally falls apart, a tender, earthy, flavorful dish that I could eat every by itself, but which becomes something even more amazing with some rice and tostones. Clearly, I had to have it in my bag of cooking tricks.
After much shameless pleading, I persuaded my wife to contribute her recipe for tostones – double-fried green plantains – to the cause. It’s underneath the ropa recipe, because while you can make ropa way ahead of time, tostones are best made and eaten immediately. I’ve eaten tostones in Puerto Rico, south Florida, and every Cuban place on the North Side, and I’ve still not had anything that can equal what she makes. They’re crispy and starchy,with a great texture and some freshly shredded cheese to provide some delicious contrast. Just make more than you think you’ll be able to eat – a lack of tostones is an existentially terrifying thing.
Ropa Vieja: The Setup
Steak
- 3 lb flank steak
- Olive oil
- Sea salt and pepper
- Flour
Braising liquid
- 2 quarts water
- 2 carrots, chopped
- 1 green pepper, chopped
- 1 white onion, chopped
- 2 stalks of celery, chopped
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp sea salt
- 1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns
Sauce
- 1 c red wine
- 16 oz can whole tomatoes – tomatoes chopped and juices reserved
- 1/2 can tomato paste (3 oz)
- 3 cloves garlic, diced
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1/4 tsp dried oregano
- 2 red bell peppers, chopped
- 2 orange bell peppers, chopped
- 1 red onion, chopped
- 1 white onion, chopped
- 1 c frozen peas, thawed
- 1/2 c sliced green olives
Cooking
1. Brush steak with oil, season with salt and pepper, and dust with flour.
2. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large pot over medium-high and sear 2-3 minutes per side.
3. Remove meat and deglaze with a small amount of red wine. Add onions and carrots and cook 5 minutes, until soft.
4. Add garlic and celery, cook another 2 minutes.
5. Return meat to the pot. Add the bay leaf, oregano, cumin, salt, and peppercorns. Add the water – make sure it’s enough to surround the meat, but not cover it entirely.
6. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours.
7. Remove the meat and leave uncovered while you strain the liquid into a medium bowl. Discard the solids.
8. When meat has cooled enough to handle, shred it. You can use forks, but your hands do it faster. Just put your cigar between your teeth. (Note: do not actually smoke over your food unless you work in a grade school cafeteria)
9. In the same large pot, cook the remaining onions and bell peppers with a couple tablespoons of oil, 5 minutes.
10. Add the meat, tomatoes with juice, 1 c wine, 1 1/2 c braising liquid, tomato paste, garlic, cumin, oregano, and salt and pepper.
11. Stir together and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer for 30 minutes.
12. Stir in peas and olives and serve over white rice with plantains.
Tostones: The Setup
- 2 green plantains, husks removed and plantain cut into 1″ pieces
- Vegetable oil
- Garlic
- Salt
- Fresh Parmesan
Cooking
1. Smash the garlic cloves and place into a large bowl of ice water with a few teaspoons of salt.
2. In l 10-12″ skillet or saute pan, pour enough oil to reach halfway up the plantain slices (1/2″). Heat oil over medium-high to 325.
3. Add the plantain slices in batches and fry 2 minutes per side, until golden brown.
4. Remove from the pot and place on a parchment or paper towel-lined cookie sheet.
5. Place a spatula on top of one of the plantains and smack it with your hand to press it to a half inch thickness.
6. Drop the plantains into the water and let them soak for a minute. Don’t keep them in any longer, or they’ll begin to disintegrate. Remove and carefully pat dry.
7. Fry plantains in the oil (returned to 325) for 2 more minutes per side, until puffed up and golden brown. Remove to paper to drain.
8. Season tostones with salt and grate Parmesan over the tops. Eat to your heart’s content, because they’re no good left over.
BONUS!
- The ropa vieja leftovers – of which you’ll likely have a lot – make an excellent sandwich topped with onions, avocados, sliced chiles, and Sriracha on a roll.