I am not the world’s biggest fan of kebabs, especially as they’re made in the backyards and on the wooden porches of our fair city. The problem with the familiar meat-veg ones is that a mushroom or bell pepper doesn’t cook at the same rate as a piece of steak. Just meat? Then you’d better cut all the pieces identically, or you’re still going to have a kebab that’s half meat, half chew toy. I usually make a frustrated face and scream “THERE HAS TO BE A BETTER WAY.” Works on late night TV.

TV also provided the answer. I spend an inordinate amount of time watching those travel food shows. During recent episodes of one or the other, I took notice of the street kebabs served in markets and stalls around Asia and the Middle East. They look better and are a lot more popular. And you know why? They don’t attempt to jam three pounds of food onto each stick. Instead, it’s just a bit of thin-sliced meat, carefully threaded for maximum surface area, and usually prepared with a tasty marinade or sauce. The result is more (and better) kebabs with less time spent prepping and cooking.

What I enjoy about these is that they’ve got a hint of sweetness, but are absolutely redolent with fish sauce and garlic. Don’t let fish sauce intimidate you. It smells harsh, but is actually quite enjoyable – sort of like John Candy.

The Setup

- 1 1/2 lb thick-cut sirloin
- 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced
- 2 cloves garlic
- 1 tbsp coriander seed
- 2 tbsp brown sugar
- 1/4 c fish sauce
- 1/2 c toasted peanuts, chopped
- 1 lime, zested and juiced

Cooking

1. Chill the steaks in the fridge for for 15 minutes in the freezer. Remove them and diagonally cut long, flat strips across the grain that measure 1″ wide and 4-5″ long.

2. Thread the beef strips onto bamboo skewers as pictured so that the surface area is flat and drawn out down the skewer as much as possible. You want to get a good sear on as much of the meat as possible. Throw the skewers into a baking dish to marinate.

3. Crush the coriander in a mortar and pestle if you have one. Throw the coriander into a food processor with the lemongrass slices, garlic, and brown sugar. Process until you’ve got a thick paste.

4. Slowly add the fish sauce to the mixture. When all the fish sauce is added, add a half teaspoon or two of the citrus zest and a squeeze of the lime juice. How much lime you’ll want will ultimately be dictated by your love/tolerance of the funky, funky fish sauce. More citrus will help mellow that, if that’s what you’re going for. Personally, I love the beautiful yet stanky fish sauce.

5. Pour the marinade over the skewers and rub in thoroughly. Throw the dish in the fridge and let marinate 30 minutes while you get the grill up to heat.

6. Spread the chopped toasted peanuts on a plate.

7. Grill skewers over medium high/high heat for 1 minute per side.

8. Remove and press into the peanuts. Eat. Several.